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Post by freestyledude on Dec 23, 2007 20:19:05 GMT -7
What is the cheapest way to get my ysr50 to cruise at 60 mph? Right now on a good day it will stay at 50 mph, but usually a bit less than that. What mods can I do to get my bike going faster to keep up with traffic?
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Post by airdreams1 on Dec 23, 2007 23:55:11 GMT -7
Gearing is the cheapest, but you'll loose takeoff power, this can be compensated by more HP.
In all truth, it all comes down to how much $ you want to spend, your riding habits, & what you expect from the bike.
Please provide any info you can about the motor, gearing, pipe, carb, etc. riding habits, are you mechanically inclined or not, etc. at this time.
Then Ill have a better Idea on where you at & what will be the cheapest options.
Ill do my best to help out in any way I can. It will make it much easier to steer you in a direction if I have the above info.
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Post by freestyledude on Dec 24, 2007 14:15:40 GMT -7
As far as I know, the only thing on the bike that is not stock is the pipe, and the pipe has no markings on it that I can see so I have no clue what brand it is. I don't really need lots and lots of power, just enough to carry my 170 lbs around. I can do all the work myself, so atleast I have the mechanics bills out of the way, so that should help a bit.
What speed can I get from gearing alone without making the bike have to work too hard to get me going? And what are a few things that may be slowing down my ysr from wear?
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Post by airdreams1 on Dec 24, 2007 23:37:18 GMT -7
If you have a pic of the pipe, I can probably tell you what brand it is, & if its any good. (id recommend a TCR, toomey, DG, or a Pro-Flow. You would be amazed at the difference the pipe make)
Gearing alone will only get you a couple mph.
As far as wear goes - wheel bearings can be a source of drag(replace them if your bike has lots of miles & in doubt), the speedo drive gear has lots of drag (you can soak it, & then re-lube it. do the same with the cable.), Chain tensioning & rear wheel alignment can slow you down (make sure they are properly adjusted), Definitely the clutch (Id recommend the one TCR sells with cryo plates)
New Boysen (or carbon fiber) reeds will help out with throttle response.
A larger carb will give you a bit better HP. The Nology coil wire is supposed give you a bit more HP as well (though I have yet to try one) The gearing Id recommend is 13 front & 44 or 42 rear (any thing different will either make it way to slow, or give it way to much torque.
Just t for reference: I'm 145lbs, running a Toomey pipe, 20mm carb, first over piston, Boysen reeds, 13 / 44 gearing + some suspension upgrades & I can only get 64 mph fully tucked in.
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Post by freestyledude on Dec 27, 2007 11:03:24 GMT -7
Heres a picture of the pipe, I looked all over the pipe and can't find a name or number anywhere. For clutch plates, is there a way you can tell if they are worn other than taking apart the motor? And which side is the clutch plates on with a ysr?
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Post by airdreams1 on Dec 27, 2007 12:09:34 GMT -7
Pic didn't show up.
The clutch plates are in the right side of the motor. (the same side as the kick lever.) No there isn't any way to really tell if they are worn without a visual inspection.
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Post by airdreams1 on Dec 27, 2007 17:07:44 GMT -7
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crash98362
New Member
fuggin goats out back
Posts: 15
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Post by crash98362 on Nov 2, 2008 17:58:21 GMT -7
cheap EASY way to do 60+ on a stocker. Draft a SUV downhill!! *LOL*
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nazty
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by nazty on May 15, 2009 18:12:16 GMT -7
Id recomend the TCR (Team Calimari Racing) twin stinger pipe and some boyseen power reeds. Just be carefull not to overspin the motor like I did. The TCR pipe is "race only" as are "all" aftermarket pipes (I'm sure there are exceptions) but is WAY quieter than the Toomy (Mine made my ears ring after 5 min. and repacking oly lasted a week or 2) and uses 2 cans that are basicly empty, ergo... no repacking. But the pipe is tuned for high RPM's so I'd suggest a tachometer to aviod the costly boom!
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Post by islandr on May 17, 2009 7:16:22 GMT -7
Hugh, in my experience the TCR was more of a midrange pipe. The Toomey, or the proflow certainly come on stronger on the top end. I am also not familiar with over-reving the 50 motor. They do let go, but thats just the nature of the motor. If you re-ring your piston every year, and keep an eye on the condition of your cylinder you can prolong the life of the motor a great while. Pipe it, use a 13t front sproket, jet it, and be done untill you want to do a motor swap. Just my 2 cents.
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nazty
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by nazty on Jun 4, 2009 11:24:50 GMT -7
Either pre-mix, or injected, I highly recomend "red-line" synthetic oil. Since using it in my Blaster (Pre-mixed @50:1) my motor has run smoother, cooler, and I can run it a tad leaner. In a 2 stroke that = more power. Just be sure to maintain good operating temp. That may be why I over spun mine, too hot to maintain 70 ( I am 6 foot 5 and weigh 200 Lbs.)
I'd stay away from the Nolgy hot wire. Lots of people used them on blasters and either fried the elect. system, or burned holes in their pistons after plug damage.
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